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Day 9, Odeceixe to Rogil, April 29

Path alongside an irrigation canal.
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All that food and wine, as well as a comfy bed, led to a great sleep. We didn’t have to rush since it was only a half day having decided to split up a day as another way of having a bit of a break—and also so that we would have more time to take advantage of a good-sounding bakery in Rogil. So, after a lazy start with breakfast, a wander around the town, more rain, coffee in the sun, we made a leisurely 11:30 departure.

Stairway with flowers along side.
Stairways were plentiful, and beautiful, in hilly Odeciexe.

Now back on the main Historic Way, our shortened day was all along an irrigation canal. Leaving Odeceixe we climbed up and enjoyed the historic windmill at the top of the town and the great views back across the river. It felt like a real Sunday stroll, and we delighted in seeing a group of preteens out having a swim in the canal with their bikes strewn on the side.

Waymark post with "No to offshore gas development" poster
Waymark post with "Petroleum and gas in the Algarve. No thanks" sticker.

The path frequently switched sides and we were lucky that, when the rains hit, we were on a side where there was a grove of trees we could shelter under. We arrived not long after 3 at our fancy but friendly hotel (Alcatruz Hotel, 65 € including breakfast). It was a bit of a challenge to tiptoe across the very clean floors in our muddy boots, but no one seemed to mind. After a delightful shower, we were escorted over to the bakery (which is part of the same family business) by the proprietor for delicious tea and tarts—one carob and one sweet potato, both specialties of the bakery and both wonderful.

Refreshed by our tea, we wandered down the main road (which is really the highway) and discovered that there wasn’t too much to discover. But we did find a great little pizza place for dinner, which while mainly doing takeaway had a couple of cozy tables and excellent food.