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Day 15, Valdesalor to Cáceres, Nov 4

Rosemary on the walking path.
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We were up early and even though it was only 11 kilometres into Cáceres, we decided to get going as early as we could. We found the other bar we hadn’t been to open by 8:30 and it was another great spot. Nedjo even got some eggs. Someone came in while the barman was in back making Nedjo’s eggs and as she seemed in a bit of a hurry she just made her own café con leche. We didn’t ever really figure out if she worked there or was just at home there. But it seemed more proof that this was one little town with big social connections. We also got caught up on the news including the latest polls for the national election that would take place in just under a week.

Our short walk into Cáceres was lovely, with the route close to the highway but always on paths and trails, and not with any of the sketchy feeling as we entered the city. We stopped on the outer edge of the city for a late morning coffee before making our way to our hotel. The Hotel Don Carlos was fabulous. It was in an excellent location, very comfortable and for the quality, a great deal. We realized that since breakfast was included it was going to be cheaper that our truck stop hotel a few days earlier.

Again, we had managed to arrive in a city where we had a rest day planned early enough that it was going to feel like two days. We enjoyed an excellent menú in the small plaza just down from our hotel with lentil stew and paella for starters and decadent chocolate mousse for dessert. We were also aware that as days were cooling we could enjoy dining outside at lunch but not in the evening so it was good to take advantage of that while we could.

Doorway in the monumental centre of Caceres.
Doorway in the monumental centre of Cáceres.

After lunch we headed into the monumental city vía the main plaza that was just one plaza over. It was an impressive site with fabulous buildings one after another on narrow cobblestone streets. We knew the sites would all be closed on a Monday and we were happy to just have this first afternoon be walking and getting a taste for the city. After the monumental centre we walked along a beautiful, tree-filled boulevard that reminded us of the one in Granada.

My back had been bothering me for the past couple of days and by now was very sore, so I was glad for some down time to rest. We also took some time to do some planning, figuring out if we wanted to keep booking places ahead (as Cáceres was our last booked spot) or just carry on a bit more adventurously. We enjoyed another walk through the old city, now quite magical in the dark, before finding a spot for tapas and two glasses of wine, one being medicinal (for my back).