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Day 21, Galisteo to Carcabosa, Nov 10

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Town wall in Galisteo.
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This was a short—11 kilometre—day for us since we hadn’t wanted to tackle the whole stretch from Grimaldo to Carcabosa in one day. This was another spot where bread, jam and coffee were laid out the night before so guests could make breakfast. None of the other guest were walking the camino. One Spanish couple was having a road trip and a British couple was driving home from Portugal. After so many places where it was only peregrinos, it made for different morning conversations, and we didn’t need to be in a rush.

Wall detail, Galisteo.
Wall detail, Galisteo.

We went into town after leaving the pension and enjoyed exploring by daylight and then climbed up the wall which you can walk along. Quite an experience. We backtracked to where we knew an alternate route passed as we were wanting to avoid road walking. The first part into the small town of San Gil was on a dirt track and lovely. We had a coffee break at the social club in the town. Nedjo is good at asking as it isn’t always easy to find a place, especially on a Sunday. It was election day and the polling station was next door.

After San Gil it was road walking after all. But the countryside was lovely with poplars along the river all turning golden. Eventually we headed back to the main route, which maybe had less traffic, so perhaps the alternate route we’d taken was not the best but since it was a short day, it didn’t really matter.

Arriving in Carcabosa we found the recommended Albergue Señora Elena. Señora Elena had died not too long ago and so I think the new proprietor is struggling to make it work. We had our own room with a double bed and bathroom but it was the only place we ever stayed where there was no lock on the front door, and as usual in albergues no locks on the individual rooms even if they were only for two people.

So we just had to trust that all our belongings would be safe as we headed out to find lunch. We settled on the hotel restaurant nearby and were welcomed in the fancy dining room even though we hadn’t changed out of our hiking clothes. The place was bustling since Sunday is the big almuerzo day. We ate well and I was just bought a bottle of wine to help myself from. We were already imagining that this would be our meal for the day.

More folks were arriving at the albergue as the afternoon wore on and with people from France and Italy and ourselves, Spanish was the common language and we had a good chat. Nothing was open and the hungry peregrina was really happy with Nedjo’s offer of some cheese and crackers to tide her over until dinnertime.

It was freezing inside the albergue and so we crawled into bed early trying to get warm. There are rumours of snow before Salamanca so we’ll have to see how it goes.