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Day 22, Carcabosa to Oliva de Plasencia, Nov 11

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Horse.
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It was a very cold  night, like last Christmas on Salt Spring when we were without power, heat or water for over a week. I bundled up just the same before crawling into bed—leggings, merino long sleeve top, fleece jacket, wool socks, wool toque and gloves. Eventually I warmed up enough to fall asleep but I was really glad to get up and going in the morning. We needed our warm gear to start the day; hats, gloves and for the first time Nedjo succumbed and put on his long pants.

Boulder with a yellow arrow.
Boulder with a yellow arrow showing the way.

It was an especially lovely morning of walking, often just a single sandy path through the dehesa with lots of cows for company. As we went north and the weather changed, it was certainly more lush and green. After many days of not being able to replenish our food stores for lunches and snacks, we had been able to stock up in Carcabosa and so enjoyed a lovely picnic with fruit, nuts and dried fruit.

Cork oak after harvest.
The rich red of a cork oak after harvest.

The final 6.6 kilometres was on a road, but one with a crushed tile and gravel shoulder for much of the way, so not terrible. This part was our off-camino detour to allow us to avoid a 38 kilometre day—one that we just didn’t feel we were up to. We had booked in at a lovely casa rural, but unfortunately the one store that was touted as being available in the community (and connected to the casa rural) was not open, so without being able to buy groceries, the kitchen was a bit of a tease (although I was able to make tea and enjoy a granola bar I’d been carrying around the whole trip). But having heat was a major bonus and that seemed like the critical piece.

Nedjo had had a chat with someone when he went out to explore and so we knew there was a bar that would likely have some food for dinner. We headed out with good hopes and although the only thing on offer was sandwiches, a fried egg sandwich seemed much better than nothing for hungry peregrinos. It however blew our theory that no matter what, our dinner was always around €20. That night dinner and drinks was just €10. Just as we left we realized we should ask what time they opened in the morning, but turned out this bar is only open in the evening so there would be no coffee and toast for breakfast.