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Day 3: Almogía to Villanueva de la Concepción, Nov 11

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Distance marker on Camin Mozarabe.
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Our dorm mates were already sound asleep when we got back around 8:00 pm, so we we’d quietly gotten ready for bed. But it was a fitful night’s sleep as those in albergues tend to be for me. There was a lot of coughing, which was rather alarming, as well as loud snoring. I appreciated having headphones and an audiobook to try to tune that out.

But in the morning there was granola for breakfast along with a cup of microwave tea that was at least hot if not the world’s best cup. We left at 8:00, wanting to beat the heat, and the morning light was enchanting. The camino left town near the albergue, making it an easy departure. Before long we had a very steep descent on a rough track and I worried it might be a tough day. But that was the most difficult part, although there were a lot of ups and downs, but mainly on a dirt road that was very pleasant.

Rosemary in an olive grove.
Rosemary in an olive grove.

We’re firmly back in olive territory although in many places there are also fields that had been ploughed recently. Being Saturday, we saw lots of people out tending trees—often just a small grove next to their house. We enjoyed flan (Día does an excellent flan and the four-pack means one each for dessert and one that needs to get eaten as soon as possible the next day) and dried figs for a mid-morning snack, then mandarins, cheese and melba toast and chocolate for lunch.

There was a lovely viewpoint with all the peaks noted on a panoramic photo and with much the same cloud cover as we had today just hiding their tops. The route continues to be well waymarked, with both GR 245 and Mozarabe signage. There have been many big, barking dogs but so far all behind fences—thanks goodness.

El Torcal – a behemoth formation of limestone – was stunning as we approached with our town,  Villanueva de la Concepción, nestled under it. It was a steep climb into town after a kilometre or two on the road and one very narrow bridge crossing.

Harvested olives.
Harvested olives in a trailer on the street in Villanueva de la Concepción.

Our studio apartment at Apartamentos Villa Torcal (€46 double) was just perfect for us with a great shower and a small kitchenette allowing us to cook a simple pasta for dinner.