Break: Córdoba, Nov 24 - 27

As I’ve mentioned, Córdoba is one of my favourite cities and this visit didn’t disappoint. Having an apartment for a number of days was such a luxury and one we fully took advantage of, especially with long, lingering breakfasts and multiple rounds of coffee. Evan and Sarah arrived from Ireland right on schedule on Friday afternoon and we had a happy reunion at the train station. Their trip from Málaga had taken about an hour—ours had been two weeks!

Our apartment was just outside the historic centre and right near the river, so we often walked along the beautiful riverside walkway and could be to the centre in 15 or 20 minutes. On Saturday morning, Nedjo, Evan and I were up in time to take advantage of the free opening time (from 8:30 – 9:30am except on Sundays) at the Mezquita. Córdoba’s Mosque-Cathedral is stunning and fills me with awe and amazement. Construction of the mosque began in 785 CE and while the initial building was complete in 787, further enlargements occurred over the next two hundred years during which time Córdoba was the largest city in Europe. In 1236 Córdoba was conquered as part of the Reconquista and the mosque was rededicated as a Catholic cathedral. Chapels were added in a piecemeal way but the most significant change came in 1523 with the building of a Renaissance cathedral nave and transept smack dab in the middle of the expansive mosque structure, hence the Mosque-Cathedral name that is often used. On our previous two visits to Córdoba, I have visited more than one and as we left – visitors are ushered out before the 9:30 mass -  I imagined I’d be back.

The days passed in a mixture of old favourites, including the excellent archaeology museum, and new-to-us sites such as the botanic gardens and a museum highlighting the water mill right by our apartment as well as much wandering and eating and drinking.

Highlights included a flamenco guitar concert at the Centro de Flamenco Fosforo, part of a free Sunday morning series and featuring an impressive female guitarist and passionate female singer. We appeared to be the only foreigners among the hundred or so packed in the small concert room—very intimate. My nephew is a luthier (among other things) and learned his guitar-building in Spain so we had been delighted to find such an event that we could take in.

Later that day we dined at the nearby La Alqueria - where we’ve eaten on each visit - and enjoyed excellent tapas: berenjenas con miel, spinach croquettes, grilled vegetables, potatoes with aioli. The electric heater meant we could sit outside and marvel at that as we celebrated all our birthdays that span from late October to mid-December.

On Monday morning Evan and I headed out promptly for another trip to the Mezquita. It was a good thing we went early as at 9:05 there was an emergency evacuation drill. We weren’t clear at first what was happening as they used the same organ-like chimes that they use to clear visitors before mass and the English was unintelligible. But eventually I made out the Spanish and a security guard hustled us out. Eventually we were given tickets to come back later in the day and our thanks for participating –  unwittingly as we were – in the drill! We couldn’t leave right away as by now fire trucks and other emergency services were arriving. By the time we made it home we were ready for our hearty breakfast of eggs and toast and lots of coffee.

After breakfast Evan, Sarah and Nedjo went to the fruteria we’ve been frequenting for produce so we can cook. The vegetable man wanted to know where Nedjo’s “beautiful wife” was. I knew I liked him! Way better than the pilgrim who asked if I was Nedjo’s mother.

Next stop was the San Basilio neighbourhood to get a taste of Córdoba’s famous patios. We visited four wonderful patios—all by donation and each quite unique. Some gave a brief tour and at others you were just free to look around. Although late November, there was still so much in bloom—geraniums, bougainvillea, and one with orchids and anthurium. It was an experience we all loved.