Day 21: Monterubbio de la Serena to Castuera, Dec 3

I didn’t have the best night and after yesterday's exertion it was a bit hard to get going but we packed up and hoped we’d find a bar open. And one was, so we got some much needed breakfast and then headed out in a heavy fog. I was glad I had packed my reflective walking sash, so I knew we were visible.

Most of the day was on asphalt, but on a sweet farm road with very little traffic and it was a wonderful and very scenic day—a reminder that not all asphalt roads are created equally! There were lots of olives, but also oak, planted areas, sheep, an area where they are restoring the dehesa and lots of mixed areas with a little of everything. There were also almond groves too. And most auspiciously, no streams to ford!

Breaks for biscuits and then nuts – eaten at the edge of an almond grove – and chocolate were welcome and we hoped we might get into Castuera in time for lunch since only an 18 km day. A dog travelled with us for a long way and we worried when we joined a highway coming into town. But just at the police station he seemed to find people he knew and trotted off which was a relief.

A sign at the police station let us know that the albergue registration had moved to a senior’s residence in a different part of town with just the street name given so it was not the easiest to find. But eventually we registered and paid, found our way to the albergue and then got changed and hoped to get some lunch. Nedjo asked a passerby for a recommendation as we hadn’t seen anything open and we were sent to a great spot. It was a fancier place but not too busy and even though getting late we were welcome and enjoyed a delicious salad with goat cheese and carmelized onion and bacalao dorado (typical salt cod, egg and shoestring potato dish). We felt restored by the good meal—although sleepy.

After showers, making our beds  – sheets yet again, such luxury – laundry, a rest and some writing time, we ventured out again thinking we might like something to eat in the evening. The albergue has a great kitchen but since it’s Sunday the grocery stores are all closed.