Day 25: Torrefresneda to Mérida, Dec 7

We woke early – no need for the alarm apparently –  and eventually we decided we’d likely find a spot open for breakfast before catching the bus, rather than waiting until we got to Torrefresneda. Bar Alonso, which had been recommended to us at the hostal in Don Benito, was open and already very busy. We had excellent toast – with cheese and tomato for Nedjo – before we went to the bus stop (which corresponded to the address the bus company gave online and which we’d asked a municipal worker to confirm). But we didn’t give the specific direction and when the bus came it was going to Don Benito. So we scurried one block over as directed and the group of men outside Bar Alonso – after some discussion – agreed there was an 8:30 bus and it hadn’t passed by yet. And about two minutes later it arrived. Wow—good last day luck! For €3.60 we skipped the second dangerous highway section and were back walking by 8:45, through Torrefresneda and then onto the service road that would be our route for the first 15 kilometres. Asphalt but – at least at the beginning – with almost no traffic.

We made it to San Pedro de Mérida in two hours and got a stamp at the tourist office, then detoured down a few blocks for coffee and hot chocolate in a truck stop cafe. Traffic picked up a bit after this so we had to be more vigilant. On the non-highway side the scenery was pretty and we realized we were getting a bit of everything on our final day. Sheep, cows and barking dogs. Olives, oak and wheat. And then as the day progressed, sun, rain and finally wind. Asphalt, sand, mud and city streets.

In Trujillanos, we had to cross a busy overpass over the freeway. But that served to take us away from the freeway the final ten kilometres and back into beautiful farmland – and quite a bit of mud – and a last olive tree to pee under. There were also some friendly farmers wishing us “Buen Camino!”

Then from wheat fields to Mérida in one step—amazing! The way in was easy, if not as scenic as when we’d arrived previously on the Vía de la Plata over the Roman Bridge. We stopped for some photos first at the entry and then by the aqueduct across from the Roman Circus and then very quickly reached our apartment (Apartamentos Lusitania, €72). We had the entry codes so we were easily in at 3:45! What an amazing end with the rain really starting just as we arrived.

Then it was time for a big flop. Tea and the last chocolate biscuit. Excellent showers and fluffy white towels. Then a big grocery shop at the Día which is only about 10 minutes away—this will be a fabulous location for our post-camino break in Mérida. Tuna, olive and garbanzo pasta accompanied with a generous pour of wine (sangria for Nedjo) then flan for dessert—a simple but delectable end-day feast. We posted photos as was now our daily habit, sent safe arrival emails and crawled into bed.