We managed a slightly earlier start today heading out a little before 10:00 after breakfast near by and wishing our hosts a happy retirement. It was a easy route out of Vila do Conde along the water and before long we were in Povão de Varim.
The rain was more steady today, keeping up almost all day long, but without the intensity or the wind and all the weather alerts have been lifted. For the first half of the day there were wild and beautiful beaches on one side and apartment buildings and shops on the other. That allowed us a great coffee and custard tart stop at 11:30 with an immaculate bathroom and some time out of the rain.
The boardwalks were mainly in great shape which made walking with poles easier—where they are more worn it is easy for your pole tip to get stuck. And it was a great day for rainbows, just one after another. I sure was glad for that poncho which I’d been grumpy about going to buy in Porto. With shorts and a short sleeve t-shirt, I was pretty much a good temperature.
Coming off a series of boardwalks we found a spot to sit and eat our cheese and buns. Beyond that we hit much more lush scenery but with a golf course between the dunes and us—a very strange juxtaposition. The more rural area gave us a pee break opportunity and the poncho serves well for that as well. Somehow we got on a more interior route, but one we both enjoyed, on a broad track with farms and gigantic puddles.
We passed through Fõa and then across a bridge and into Esposende and the delightful Hostel Eleven (€40, twin) with a warm welcome, tour of the kitchen and “make yourself tea” and a beautiful room and hot shower for a good scrub down. After showers and tea, we decided we’d enjoy the well-stocked kitchen for cooking and headed out for groceries.
The town was sweet with a pedestrianized centre and although we only found a small store it had all we needed: pasta, some veggies, cheese, fruit for tomorrow, juice and wine. All for €12.40—what a good deal! Nedjo cooked and I was his sous chef for a fresh and healthy meal, even with whole wheat pasta. Then we had a lovely chat with fellow peregrino Patricio, originally from Argentina but who has lived mostly in the US. All in all, a very good day.