Day 10, Rogil to Alzejur, April 30

Since there were few guests at the hotel during the low-season, breakfast was at the bakery. And it was an incredible feast. We soon realized we should have sat at a larger table as there wasn’t room for all the food. A pitcher of fresh orange juice, pots of coffee and warm milk, a bowl of scrambled eggs, a platter of cheese, two kinds of bakery-fresh bread with cherry jam, and finally after all that (and once there was room on the table) a platter of fruit. We lingered over breakfast to do justice to the spread and since it was pouring we were in no rush to head out. We were learning that the rain was usually short-lived but intense, and best just to take shelter.

There was an optional beach circuit that we had contemplated, but given the state of my feet and the weather, we decided just to keep it a short day and make straight for Aljezur.

Leaving Rogil we continued along the irrigation canal, where the path was now incredibly muddy and so very slow going. Our break in the weather didn’t last long and soon the light rain turned into a fierce downpour and we were soaked by the time we found a eucalyptus grove to shelter under.

Nedjo’s game of the day was to pick a significant date and place and then for us to take turns reconstructing the details of what happened. It was a great way to pass the time.

Shortly after the rain stopped and we started up again, we left the irrigation canal to follow a broad track the rest of the way into town. It was lovely to look over fields to the sea just a few kilometres away. We ended with a very steep decent into Aljezur and Nedjo handily navigated us right to our hostel (Amazigh Hostel, 49 €, private room with bathroom but not including breakfast) in the old part of town.

It was the first place that had lost our reservation, and although there was a room, it did turn out to be a less than stellar place. The room was fine, but staff were definitely the least friendly of anywhere on our trip.

With our short day, we arrived early enough to explore the new town across the river plain, do some grocery shopping and have ice cream all before dinner. The good looking taberna was fully booked, so we opted for another meal of pizza at what looked like (and was) a good choice close to the hostel.