Day 18: Villaharta to Alcaracejos, Nov 30

We had an early night and as the only pilgrims at the albergue I slept pretty well. But Nedjo is not sleeping well these days and that does take a toll. We made do with tea and granola bar and got away by 8:30.

The day’s route started on a road, climbing steadily out of town. But at least there wasn’t too much traffic. As always we were happy when we turned onto a dirt track—deeply red with the mineral content. There were sheep all around and, surprising to us at this time of year, lots of lambs as well. It was a particularly beautiful stretch and the rain was holding off. The wide red road gave way to a narrow and winding track, and eventually we descended in the mist to a river. We needed to cross a river on stone blocks and then discovered a picnic shelter on the far side. Thanks EU! Many of the improvements we see along the camino are EU-funded and we’re very grateful for that.

There continued to be lots of climbing and descending but not too challenging and with such lovely surroundings with a mix of olives and oaks. I’d missed the olives if you can believe it! Eventually the rain really picked up and the mud made it very slippery and slow going, especially since now we were back on a broad road. It was a bit better when the track narrowed and was more rocky.  But the rain was now heavy and I was really happy when we left the camino for the 800m stretch to where we’d get a taxi. Two different farmers passing in vehicles stopped to check on us and seemed relieved with our plans. I was somewhat chilled and glad to stop and get on warmer clothes while we waited. I’m quite stubborn and don’t like to skip any walking section but this was definitely the right choice and €20 very well spent on a taxi!

We were dropped at our terrific hostal (Hostal Cesar/Dehesa de Pedroches €35), the cheapest yet on our trip and with very helpful staff. Showers, dry clothes and prospect of food in the restaurant below were very  restorative. We were served an excellent menú del día for €12 where we were offered fish when we told them we didn’t eat the meat options. And mine came with a half bottle of wine!