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Day 19: Alcaracejos to Hinojosa del Duque, Dec 1

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Mural of old men sitting on bench.
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We hadn’t needed dinner after our big lunch, but we were happy the hostal bar opened early as we were ready for our morning toast. The curtain rod in our room fell on Nedjo’s head as he was checking the weather, but luckily just gave him a small cut.

We had hoped to wait out the early morning rain somewhat, but even so it was till raining—as some people in the hostal bar helpfully pointed out to us as we left. But before too long, it lightened up and that was a relief. It was a lovely day of walking but with a couple of challenging places where to avoid fording streams we detoured to the main – and quite busy – road to cross by a bridge. Once we were challenged finding our way back to our route and some fence climbing ensued. The second time was a very busy section and we were glad to get off the bridge. And a friendly motorist pulled over to make sure we knew there was actually a safer path. We assured him we were just avoiding the fast flowing river!

Water flowing over stepping stones in a river.
Water rushing over the stepping stones in a river.

I almost lost my sunglasses, which I noticed were missing after our snack/lunch break. Nedjo cleverly looked at the last photo I’d taken – and which I’d taken them off to take – which wasn’t far back and there they were. I was very relieved as they are clip-ons to my prescription glasses and so not replaceable while travelling. By this point in the trip they were held together with super glue after breaking on the Camino Portugues and I was trying to baby them along.

Cactus
At last the sun had come out and this cactus was a good counterpoint to the earlier rain.

For a short day it took us a little longer than we had hoped so we called ahead to the albergue, just in case. There was some busy road walking near the entry to Hinojosa del Duque and eventually a new section of path being built that was very muddy but preferable to the side of the road. This was followed by a semi-deserted industrial zone complete with newish but already broken sidewalks and then a somewhat abandoned part of town before we emerged into the main square. The albergue paperwork was done at the local police office, adjacent to the ayuntamiento with the albergue itself just around the corner in the same building.

The albergues just kept getting better. This one had sheets, blankets and towels! We made our beds, had our showers and then headed out to explore and get groceries. There’s no potable water at the albergue (seems to be an issue in the whole town, not just the albergue), so got water too during our grocery shop and had a lovely chat with the cashier. People are generally quite interested that we’ve come all the way from Canada to walk here. We took advantage of the laundry sink in the bathroom to do some much needed washing and then rushed to the 6:30 light-up in the square.

We had seen the preparations in the main plaza on our arrival and were delighted that we’d get to join in the festivities as the Christmas lights were turned on. The whole town seemed to be out and as well as the usual tree of lights there were also lights on the ayuntamiento and cathedral on the other side of the small square. Dancing and singing mascots led the crowds in song and then kids lined up to don festive hats and get photos taken inside the tree. There was also a life-sized Nativity scene and scenes of market stalls. What a great way to kick off December.

Snowman mascot
Dancing and singing mascots at the Christmas light-up.

We had a great dinner at the bar on the corner of the square—chicken and our favourite fried eggplant with molasses. The bar was hopping because of light-up and filled with families and lots of children. But food was available earlier than usual and that suited us as we needed an early night as tomorrow would be a very long day.